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The_Nephilim

Nephilims Virtual Pit..

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Well today went to microcenter and bought a 980GTX really killer card only 1 small problem.. my car is having some issues, I thought initially it was the Oil Pump but further investigation leaned towards the oil sending unit which I replaced this afternoon..

I took the car for a spin but tomorrow is the big test as I have to take my nephew to work and round trip is about an hour. I am expecting the needle to drop on the last leg and towards the top of the hour on the way home.. I took it for a quick test tonight and it did not drop once and was even registering higher pressure then before..

So maybe by chance it was a bad oil sending unit and I got off lite.. You may ask why have I not installed the card well thing is if I need to change and oil pump I will need that money I bought the card with to do the oil pump, I may do it myself if need be.. but with the cold not really looking forward to doing that job..

So hopefully I fixed my troubles and I can install the card tomorrow.. I did have a Bulb blow out too and I ordered another one which I am hoping will be here by the end of the week..

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Well I do believe the oil pump is defunct or dieing.. I will have to return the video card and get the car fixed..

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Well stroke of luck. I installed the video card yesterday and it took a bit of doing but I got it installed now.. I am liking the DSR Feature..

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Well I am a dumbass what I thought was DSR turned out I was setting it up wrong.. What you have to do or how it is supposed to work is you set the times DSR then go ingame and set the desired resolution so say your native is 1920x1080 and you are doing 4x that set it 4x 1920x1080P then the driver software is supposed to scale it back down to your native res but it appears to be a higher res it does look really cool as I was able to get it working in ESO..

So far in other games I have not been totally successful.. Like in AION I set the DSR to 2x's then go ingame and it has the wrong 2x resolution.. Altho I can pick it and then go ingame and it scales but the NVidia 3D Visoin does not kick in as it says I am in a NON 3d Mode..

So From what I gathered they have a supported games list and it is mostly newer games.. I think they need to work out some bugs as I can not get it working in F4 or Aion.. LOTRO Does not work either :(

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Well I got it worked out.. the .dll I was looking for was not there as I did not have all files in PE EXplorer.. I went there manually and the dll I needed to edit was there and voila I have I believ all my games now in a higher resolution with DSR..

Now, I just need to wait until they get triplescreen setup working with DSR as it is still in development.. so while I am single screening it I can enjoy a better looking game..

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Well today I went out and bought a Proper Laser level.. It is a Bosch CL55 and it worked real well.. the good thing is it has a mounting screw to put on a stand which I did and set it too a near perfect alignment.. I took some pics but now in the right lower corner I am getting a bit of the image blocked from somewhere inside the lens??





Tomorrow before I turn it on I will look inside and see if I can see what might be blocking it.. I tried looking off center in there but it is just way to bright.. well here are 2 pics of the laser leveled image:

iqnbs6.jpg

lkfuIh.jpg

Well back to some gaming and worry about the image aligning tomorrow.. But I must say I wish I would have bought the auto leveler earlier like when I built the curved screen it made it so much easier to align..

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Well I fine tuned it a bit more took over an hour to reconfigure but it was worth it now I should be near perfect on alignment..


AWEwEa.jpgiVjWzN.jpg

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Well it was real but interesting way to look at them.. I did buy a new Warping software and spent 4 hours this morning aligning the image. I am about near perfect but need a bit more tweaking having a hard time understanding how the edge blend is supposed to work..

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Well I had talked with Tomas the owner of simpits and he walked me through how to set the edge blend.. Well after messing with it for hours after I got off chat with him, this morning I decided to start from scratch and got a really nice result..

The edge blend is pretty close and I just need to mess with the advanced blend controls to fine tune it.. But the other good news is I painted the screen with Behrs silver screen paint and the result was fabulous.. It looks so much better now and diffused..

It does not appear to have any refelction and looks more like a monitor but movie like.. I do like the Paint and it only took an hour and a half to do the job..

I may take some new videos soo at least some pics would be good.. Cant wait too fly tonight and tonights flyin..

p3zZgI.jpg

sgryWE.jpg

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Yes, epic!

What's the background? It looks like a fairly accurate south facing scene taken from above the Sheikh Zayed Road in Dubai. It's clearly not a photo though.

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Well form what I understand that is correct about the area but it is a real picture taken during an oncoming sandstorm..

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Wow, It's got that Sim-City vibe to it and doesn't look real at all.

Since I know that area quite well, I was wondering which tower it would have been taken from....and using Goggle Earth we have an answer. It's likely the Al Manara Tower sometime before the tower on the lower right was built.

almanara.png

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Well onwards with my setup I am going to attempot a Ttitan type setup using a Spehered mirror.. Hopefully to recreate this effect:

I will have to buy 1 mirror and experiment a bit.. I am wondering if the paint will crack If I bend the screen more?? I can always flip it and repaint it.. there is not much info on these domed tryped simulators I am trying to replicate..

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Well after finding out how much a collimated mirror costs I am just going to keep my current setup until something elese comes up that is possibly better..

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WEll I had a major malfunction of my Gaming chair the other night.. So This time I had to fix it propely.. I went to the Metal shop to get a schedule 40 pipe to make my repair.. I found a piece and it was cheaper to buy a foot then to get a 4" piece cut..

I then went to the Storage shed to get the welder, Grinder and Sawsall. but I could not find the grinder or sawsall so I had to make due with the bench grinder and hacksaw..

I went home and setup my gear and began the process it was about 12PM when I started.. First I cleaned up the chair pipe with the bench grinder removing the old weld to fit the sleeve on it.. I then had to cut the pipe something I was not looking forward to do as it took near an hour to hack through the piep with the hacksaw..

I was glad that was over now to gut the original piston pipe on the chair that took about 20 minutes as to not have the plastic get into the wled and make it weak.. Alto I made th sleeve fit all the way down to the pedastal the weld on the inside was just to hold it steady and not really much of a structual weld as to just hold it in place..

I then scraped all the paint off the steel plate as too get a good weld onto it. I then placed the pipe over the piston and welded the inside piece all the way around.. then I put the bottom part of the chair aligned it up and tacked it onto the plate..

I then welded it up going over it with 2 passes as too make sure it was securely welded this tiem.. I let it cool off a bit then painted it with primer then a flat black.. I then let it finish cooling down and fumagating outside till about 7PM I got done around 4pm..

here are the pictures and hopefully it last longer this time.. I do need to invest in a 220v stick welder for these bigger jobs as this 120v welder just is not really cut out for this kind of work..

WEll I had a major malfunction of my Gaming chair the other night.. So This time I had to fix it propely.. I went to the Metal shop to get a schedule 40 pipe to make my repair.. I found a piece and it was cheaper to buy a foot then to get a 4" piece cut..

I then went to the Storage shed to get the welder, Grinder and Sawsall. but I could not find the grinder or sawsall so I had to make due with the bench grinder and hacksaw..

I went home and setup my gear and began the process it was about 12PM when I started.. First I cleaned up the chair pipe with the bench grinder removing the old weld to fit the sleeve on it.. I then had to cut the pipe something I was not looking forward to do as it took near an hour to hack through the piep with the hacksaw..

I was glad that was over now to gut the original piston pipe on the chair that took about 20 minutes as to not have the plastic get into the wled and make it weak.. Alto I made th sleeve fit all the way down to the pedastal the weld on the inside was just to hold it steady and not really much of a structual weld as to just hold it in place..

I then scraped all the paint off the steel plate as too get a good weld onto it. I then placed the pipe over the piston and welded the inside piece all the way around.. then I put the bottom part of the chair aligned it up and tacked it onto the plate..

I then welded it up going over it with 2 passes as too make sure it was securely welded this tiem.. I let it cool off a bit then painted it with primer then a flat black.. I then let it finish cooling down and fumagating outside till about 7PM I got done around 4pm..

here are the pictures and hopefully it last longer this time.. I do need to invest in a 220v stick welder for these bigger jobs as this 120v welder just is not really cut out for this kind of work..

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mbLter.jpg

ADzD1S.jpg

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M7QPbe.jpg

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Well that is to be seen but I do think it will not break at the butt weld to the plate.. I put two passes there and full heat.. I need to invest in a better welder or get some CO2 gas for better wleds this gassles wire I use is a real PITA..

I prefer MIG but with Gas heck I weld better with a stick then this gassless wire they made up it is crap..

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Well I had a small malfunction this morning.. I was sitting here looking on the web when I hear d a pop and pieces came fliying out and I hear a really bad noise I was instantly up and turning the projector off..

I took it down and began the operation immediately. upon opening it I seen some parts and it looked like the bulb so I pulled the bulb out that looked fine.. so I opened the case up and looked at the color whell it was destroyed..

I am unsure how it malfunctioned but it was quick and nothing I could do.. So I put some stuff up on ebay and hopefully I can get enough to but the new wheel..

here is a pick of the broken color wheel:


full-1275-109649-img_0240.jpg

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Well I had another run of the breakdowns, this time another lens got fried.. but the good news Is I think I know why it is happening.. I had posted at the fixyourdlp.com forums and forgot about it and whilst I was googling I found it and some guy had responded and stated the bulbs come in 2 types a E22 and a P22, he said the E22 are most likely what I bought and that is the root of the problem..

The P22 are parabolic and spread the light evenly while the E22 are more direct at a central location.. That is probally what is causing these lenses to get burnt up I have E22 bulbs.. So I found a new place to get bulbs Jasperelectronics.com and will buy from there..

I emailed them to find out if there uber cheap bulb is a P22 type or an E22 type.. they did have the Original P-VIP Bulbs that are the P22 type but cost 142.00$$ I can get the OEM bulbs for 115.00$ and the barre bulbs foir 45$$..

I am going to try and call them tomorrow and see what they say..

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